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How Chanel's NEVOLD is Leading Luxury's Circular Future

  • Writer: Claire Worsley
    Claire Worsley
  • 7 days ago
  • 4 min read

I literally had to put down my morning coffee when I read the news on Monday. Chanel—yes, THE Chanel—just announced something that made my sustainable fashion-loving heart absolutely soar. They've launched NEVOLD (and honestly, can we talk about how perfect that name is? "Never old"—I'm getting chills!), a completely standalone company dedicated to transforming textile waste into new raw materials.

This isn't just another greenwashing press release, friends. This is Chanel saying, "we're going all-in on circular fashion," and I am here for every single thread of it.

Picture this: L'Atelier des Matières dismantling products and sorting materials, Filatures du Parc spinning recycled yarns, and Authentic Material transforming leather waste. It's like watching the circular economy come alive in the most elegant way possible! But here's what's really got me excited—the heels of Chanel's iconic slingback pumps are no longer made of plastic but of a recycled component. I mean, when you're walking in Chanel slingbacks, you're stepping into the future of sustainable luxury!


Bruno Pavlovsky, president of fashion at Chanel, calls this a "third activity" within Chanel's structure, sitting alongside its fashion unit and the famed Métiers d'Art division. This isn't a side project—it's becoming core to who Chanel is as a brand.


But Chanel isn't alone in this incredible transformation. The luxury fashion world is experiencing what I like to call the "Green Glow-Up," and honestly, it's giving me so much hope for the future.


If there's anyone who deserves a sustainability crown, it's Stella McCartney. She's the first luxury fashion brand to never use animal leather, feathers, fur or skins, and she's been doing this since day one in 2001—way before it was trendy! What absolutely blows my mind is her relentless innovation game. She's constantly pioneering new materials like Hydefy, an animal-free, planet-friendly vegan fungi-based textile that debuted with her new Ryder bag at the Summer 2025 runway show. Plus, her work with Piñayarn®—a 100% plant-based, recyclable and biodegradable textile—is giving us sustainable alternatives that actually feel luxurious.


Then there's Gabriela Hearst, who literally made history. For her Spring Summer 2020 Womenswear Show, she worked with EcoAct & Bureau Betak to examine every necessary aspect of its production, design, and installation process—making it the industry's first carbon-neutral runway show. But what I love most about her approach is how deeply personal it is. She breathes new life into the remnants of Turkish rugs and cashmere scraps, which are reincarnated as colourful overcoats and sharp blazers. As someone who upcycles denim, I completely understand that satisfaction of giving discarded materials a stunning second life!


The Danish cool-girls at GANNI are proving that sustainability can be seriously chic. In 2024 alone, GANNI saved 1,748.1 kg of CO2e and 498,661.7 litres of water through their repair services. But they're not stopping there—they're aiming for 5% of total revenue from circular business models by 2025. Their latest innovation has me absolutely obsessed: The SIMPLIFYBER x GANNI 'Moon Shoe', which debuted at Paris Fashion Week Spring 2025, uses a cellulose-based liquid from renewable sources that can be moulded into garments. It's like 3D printing meets sustainable fashion, and I'm living for it!


Even the luxury giants are stepping up in incredible ways. LVMH was the first to secure the prestigious CDP Triple A rating for environmental impact in 2022, one of just 12 companies to achieve this status. But what really gets me excited are their 2024 numbers: 290,230 meters of material upcycled, 10 million products repaired, refilled and taken back after use. They've even created La Millière, an exceptional site spanning 30 hectares where they inaugurated the first LIFE Academy in 2024, providing employees with environmental training. They're growing sustainability from the ground up!


In 2024, Kering landed its Triple A rating, and their approach with Gucci has me genuinely inspired. Gucci is now carbon neutral in its own operations and entire supply chain since 2018 and 2021, respectively. What's absolutely thrilling about this moment in fashion is the materials innovation happening everywhere I look. We're witnessing the birth of fashion's future fabrics, and honestly, it feels like we're living in a sci-fi movie—except it's real and it's happening now! From mushroom leather to recycled ocean plastic, from regenerated cashmere to plant-based alternatives, the material science revolution is transforming what luxury can look like.


Here's the thing that keeps me up at night (in the best way): Five key raw materials—cotton, wool, cashmere, silk and leather—represent 80 percent of Chanel's materials volume. All are under increasing strain due to environmental degradation, limited traceability or geopolitical tensions. NEVOLD and initiatives like it aren't just nice-to-haves—they're addressing a genuine crisis. The value of excess inventory held by luxury fashion's biggest groups has grown to billions of dollars over the last decade, reaching €3.2 billion at LVMH and €1.5 billion at Kering last year. These circular initiatives are transforming this massive waste problem into incredible opportunity.

As I'm writing this, I can't help but think about how far we've come. Chanel has been building toward this for years, investing in circular material solutions behind the scenes since at least 2019. NEVOLD represents the formalization of this long-term commitment, and it gives me so much hope.


"We are not trying to replace what nature gives us," Pavlovsky insists. "But the ability to get the best quality with full transparency and traceability is becoming more difficult. Nevold is how we explore long-term alternatives—not for next season, but for the next generation."


This is about our future, our planet, and proving that luxury and sustainability aren't just compatible—they're the perfect partnership.


You know what fills me with the most excitement? Knowing that every single one of us can be part of this circular fashion revolution, right from our own homes. Whether you're like me, turning old denim into something completely new, or you're taking a beloved sweater to be mended instead of tossing it, or even just choosing to buy one beautiful, well-made piece instead of five fast-fashion items—your part of this incredible movement.


The fashion giants are leading the charge, but the real magic happens when all of us embrace the idea that everything we own is "never old"—that everything can have a beautiful second life. So, dig into that closet, grab those scissors or that needle and thread, and let's upcycle our way to a more beautiful future, one small project at a time.

Because honestly? The planet needs every single one of us, and every single thread counts.


 
 
 

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